by Shandelle Marie Henson
There is a source of wonderment,
greater than stellar magnitudes,
the tricks of time,
or the miracle of growth.
It is that we are here
and have within us the ability
to know beauty, to be kind,
to experience patience, peace,
and deep piety.
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No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
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mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.

I wrote this book over a period of several years while in graduate
school. There were times when I doubted it would ever be completed. I
wish to thank all of those whose help and encouragment motivated me to
finish this manuscript.
When I first decided to research the life of Sam Campbell, I called
the home of his friend Sigurd Olson in Ely, Minnesota. I didn't realize
Mr. Olson had recently passed away, but his wife Elizabeth Olson
graciously answered my questions and suggested I call Walter Goldsworthy
of Three Lakes, Wisconsin.
When I contacted Walt Goldsworthy, I realized I had hit the jackpot
of Sam Campbell information and enthusiasm! John "Walt" Goldsworthy is
administrator of the Three Lakes Museum and one of the founders of the
Three Lakes Historical Society. He is also a writer, philosopher,
environmentalist, and former forest
service naturalist. In the tradition of Sam Campbell, he has been a wise
mentor for many young people, and is the prime motivator behind most of
the major community projects launched in the Three Lakes area. "Uncle
Walt" was a friend of Sam Campbell's during Sam's later years. He, along
with Jean Brewster, have contributed the bulk of the information in this
book. Without Uncle Walt, I would have never started this book, and
certainly would have never finished it!
Walt Goldsworthy introduced me to Jean Cunningham Brewster of Three
Lakes. Jean grew up around Sam Campbell, who had been "adopted" by the
Cunninghams as part of the family. Jean and her sister Beth appeared in
Sam's books as the composite character "June." Sam always described June
as a beautiful, dark-haired, athletic girl. I first met Jean Brewster
when Michael J. Battistone and I attended the dedication of the Sam
Campbell Memorial Trail Complex in Three Lakes on June 29, 1989. I
immediately knew who she was without even being introduced. She is a
dark-eyed, beautiful, energetic lady--just the way I had pictured a
grown-up June. She warmly and graciously answered our questions, and has
added a host of details from her tremendous memory.
I also wish to thank Doris Goldsworthy for her help with historical
details, her excellent proof reading, and her hospitality. Norman
Brewster also helped with historical details and contributed anecdotes.
Doris and Walt Goldsworthy, and Jean and Norm Brewster read the
manuscript, as did my parents John and Audrey Henson, and my friend David
Banks.
Michael J. Battistone helped with the initial research and wrote
part of Chapter One (see Appendix One). He generated a lot of the early
enthusiasm for the project.
Further thanks are due to the Three Lakes Historical Society, The
Watseka Historical Society, Evelyn Frandsen, Robert Gentry, Norman
Hallock, Jan Haluska, Judy Hanson, Henry Haskell, H. Lyle Hinz, Dorothy
Hoelter, Doug Jordan, Diedre Kieckhefer, Robert M. Kieckhefer, Doris and
George Koller, Betty Lamon, Ralph Leatzow, Art Meyers, Violet Olkowski,
Elizabeth Olson, Sigurd T. Olson, Jr., Jim Pascoe, Gertrude Puelicher,
John Sanstead, Janet Wolfe, and Ruth Yeager; also to Julie du Mars and
Constance Wilson, archivists at The First Church of Christ, Scientist in
Boston, and to many others.
The photographs are courtesy of Jean Brewster and the Three Lakes
Museum. The origin of a few of the photographs is unknown; I regret any
cases in which I have been unable to
give proper credit.
I have endeavored to blend the sometimes conflicting written records
and oral accounts into a factual life story. I regret any errors.
My parents were students at Collegedale Academy and Southern
Missionary College in Collegedale, Tennessee during the late 1940's and
early 1950's. Like many young people of the day, they became acquainted
with Sam Campbell through their school's lyceum programs. Sam Campbell
was a favorite on the lecture circuit all over the country. He would
come to speak on conservation and narrate his interesting and often
hilarious movies of north woods animal life.
My parents bought our family's first Sam Campbell books in 1969.
They were the green hardcover first editions published by Bobbs-Merrill
Company. I was too young to enjoy the books, and they sat on our
bookshelves by the fireplace, patiently waiting.
When I was a few years older, WSMC-FM, the local radio station,
hosted a children's program every Sunday night called "Just For Kids."
Joyce Dick, who was later my high school English teacher, did an
excellent job reading children's
books for this program. Her renditions of Sam Campbell's stories
especially stirred my imagination, and before long I discovered the
exciting green books by the fireplace.
At first I read the books for their story content, and skipped over
the descriptive prose and philosophy. I loved the books so much,
however, that I read them over and over, each time reading more of the
"boring" parts. These passages had a profound influence on my young
mind. By the time I reached the seventh grade, I had become sensitive to
the beauty of nature, I had a deep interest in philosophy and spiritual
matters, and I was already a conservationist.
I also had a severe case of wanderlust. Sam wrote in one of his
books that as a youngster, he sometimes became literally ill with his
desire for wilderness. I knew exactly what he meant! I longed for
backpacking and canoeing trips; I dreamed of far-off places like Lake
Louise, the Grand Canyon, and Canadian canoe country. I fretted to see
panthers, moose, beaver, and river otters in the wild. Sometimes as a
child, I too felt quite ill with these longings.
A childhood friend named Greg Phillips was also a big Sam Campbell
fan. He and I used to quote long passages of the books by memory, and
interminably go through that crazy "Squoip" routine from A Tippy Canoe
and Canada Too. We
ordered maps from Minnesota's Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness and
pored over them for hours, retracing Sam Campbell's routes through the
maze of lakes. We were determined to locate the mysterious "Sanctuary
Lake" and go there someday. Greg and I carefully planned many canoe
trips to the area, but we were too young to do more than dream.
As a young adult, I suddenly realized I was at last in a position to
begin indulging my dreams of wilderness. Since then, I have spent nearly
every spare moment backpacking or hiking. I was finally able to make
those long-anticipated canoe trips into Boundary Waters!
In June of 1989, I camped for a week with two friends on the north
shore of Four Mile Lake near Three Lakes, Wisconsin. This campsite, now
in Nicolet National Forest, at one time lay in Campbell's Sanctuary of
Wegimind. We could see Sam Campbell's island from our camp! We met many
friends of the Campbells', and visited all the special places familiar to
Campbell readers such as Vanishing Lake, Four Mile Creek, and Franklin
Lake. Two years later, I returned to Three Lakes to do some more
research. Incidentally, throughout all the excitement of these trips,
one general impression has remained in my mind. I had been warned not to
be disappointed when the places described in Sam
Campbell's books turned out to be different from the way I imagined
them. The startling thing is that the places look very much like what I
have imagined for all these years!
Sam Campbell, naturalist, lecturer, photographer, author and
philosopher, was one of the early pioneers in the environmental
movement. Campbell's unique approach to conservation was two-fold.
First, it was grounded in a philosophy of absolute values. I'll say more
about this in a moment. Second, his efforts were aimed at educating and
entertaining people (especially children) in hopes of raising their
consciousness. Sam Campbell respected the emerging breed of politically
active conservationists, and acknowledged a great need for them.
However, he found that his own personality was much better suited to
low-key, friendly efforts to help people appreciate nature and thus lift
their thoughts to more lofty values.
A secular reader may be surprised by the spiritual themes in this
story. To understand Sam Campbell, it is essential to recognize that his
whole life, including his dedication to conservation, was consistently
based on the absolutes of his beliefs about God. Today it is no longer
fashionable for forward-thinking
people to put their arguments on spiritual foundations.
Environmentalists have strong feelings about the morality of protecting
the earth, but our arguments are often reduced to pragmatism and
utilitarianism. In this account of Campbell's life, I have tried to be
faithful to his philosophy as I understand it.
Sam Campbell wrote twelve story books which are still reprinted by
Pacific Press Publishing Association of Boise, Idaho. Lesser known are
his first book The Conquest of Grief and his collection of essays
Nature's Messages. He also wrote many freelance articles and essays,
some of which have been compiled in various sources.
This is the story of Sam Campbell's life, not a comprehensive
biography. There is, however, an appendix for each chapter. These
appendices (1) separate the chapter's facts from speculation or mere
fictional story devices; (2) acknowledge the sources and references for
the chapter; and (3) give additional information of interest. I welcome
any corrections, comments, and information from readers. Please send
correspondence to:
Sam Campbell died unexpectedly in 1962, two years before I was
born. He influenced my life only through his books. A set of twelve
story books may seem a small thing, but it is impossible to overestimate
the influence Sam Campbell had on my life. He taught me to value faith,
the Still Small Voice, solitude, wilderness, and friendship. I have met
hundreds of others, from grade school children to the very elderly, who
have been similarly enriched. How we thank God for the humble, joyful,
hilarious naturalist, his pet animals, and his wonderful
books!
Sam Campbell, the "Philosopher of the Forest," was a legend of the
North Country. Once met, he was never forgotten, for he was a fountain
of inspiration and buoyant enthusiasm. He enriched and inspired man's
appreciation for the power and glory of God manifested in all of
creation.
I first met Sam some 40 years ago in 1948. I have never forgotten
the moment.
It was an evening in early December. The Three Lakes Rotary Club
was gathered to present him with a new toboggan to haul supplies from the
mainland to his island home.
Snowflakes drifted inÊ behind him as he
entered the lighted hall where he was to be special guest of the evening
dinner. A red Hudson Bay jacket and a fur cap accented his ruddy face
wreathed in smiles of happiness as he greeted old friends.
I was a new comer. We had never met. He
took my hand, and the firmness of his grip assured me here indeed was a
fellow lover of the great outdoors. There was an aura of almost mystical
charm about Sam, an inspiring, joyful nature that captivated his
listeners as he shared their companionship.
Over the years, as our acquaintanceship grew and developed into
deeper friendship, many new avenues into the realm of nature opened up to
me. Heretofore my value of nature had been more utilitarian -- that of
the hunter and trapper. I was a challenger of the natural law and
oftentimes the civil law that attempted to favor the creatures of the
forest.
Sam taught me compassion for the lesser creatures of creation. He
led me to realize that the forest was, as Bryant has said, "God's ancient
sanctuaries;" and that in the halls of these verdant temples, the soul of
man is refreshed, and a thinking man is filled with wonderment.
Because of Sam, I came to be conscious of the depths of
creation, for Sam once wrote,
"What more fitting place to worship than the forest where there is such
multiform evidence of Him whose name is Love!" I came to learn that here
in the depths of these ancient cathedrals, all life moves to laws not of
its own, but to those which attest to the infinite
power and intelligence of the Creator of all.
Sam fostered within me a richer appreciation for the fog-filled
sunrises along these northern waterways, the haunting cries of loons, the
glow of a campfire, the calls of owls, music of the coyotes, the splash
of beaver in the nighttime waters. Each took on a mantle of spiritual
refreshment as the years unfolded. From Sam I learned of the stellar
constellation Capella, "Queen of the North." Sam called her the guardian
of the wilderness nights, for Capella never sets, but circles the
northern skies. My moments as a sojourner in far places are always
brightened when I seek out the friendly glitter of this Queen.
The doors of wilderness joy and wisdom which Sam opened for me, he
opened for millions of others who were exposed to his films, lectures and
books.
Now, as I have lived my three score and ten years and have embarked
on the four score mark of time, I can only hope and pray that all those
who come to walk the Sam Campbell Trail Complex which winds
through the timbered highlands north of Four Mile Lake, the locale of
Sam's Island home Wegimind, will catch that golden spirit of Sam's
philosophy as they explore the shadowy avenues of the virgin forest and
catch the enchantment of Vanishing Lake,
that
jewel of Sam Campbell Country.
It was late in the summer of 1929.
A lone birchbark canoe moved silently along the north shore of Four
Mile Lake in the early morning light. A family of loons watched from the
protective shadows of a small island a few hundred yards away.
Occasionally one of the parent birds would lift its head and call out its
haunting wail.
To the loons, the canoe appeared to be a log floating along the far
bank, partially obscured by the mists rising from the warm water into the
chilly morning air. The electric blue chamois shirt worn by the man who
guided the craft seemed to the loons a piece of the sky come down to get
a morning drink from the lake. They did not see the silent j-strokes,
nor the little whirling vortices left behind by the broad blade of his
paddle in the silky water.
The man's heavy khaki britches were tucked into high moccasin boots
laced up to his knees. His prematurely graying, thinning brown hair
ruffled in the slight breeze caused by the forward motion of the canoe.
The movements of his powerful arms and broad chest were fluid and
unhurried; he and his bark craft formed a perfectly natural part of the
wild surroundings.
Sam felt the peace of the morning fill his soul. He nudged the bow
of his canoe onto a short sandy beach, and lay back in the gently rocking
craft, his face turned up towards the deepening blue of the morning sky.
His eyes closed.
He loved rivers. Maybe it was because of the songs they sang on
their way to the sea, or perhaps he was intrigued by the mystery of
something which in one sense was always changing, and in another,
timeless. Or maybe he was simply a boy in search of adventure, and like
Huck Finn, he knew where this elusive prey would most likely be found.
For whatever reason, young Sam Campbell chose to make his first camp on
the banks of the Iroquois River in northeastern Illinois. It was the
"first date" in a love affair which was to inspire him throughout his
life.
Samuel Arthur Campbell was no newcomer to this country. He had been
born here in Watseka on August 1, 1895. Four years later, his parents
had moved to Chicago, but every summer they returned for a vacation on
his grandfather's farm. These annual trips were the highlight of the
year. It gave his father, Arthur James Campbell, a rest from his job at
the Sloan Valve Company, and his mother, Katherine, a chance to visit
with her parents.
In fact, everyone liked to visit with Sam's maternal grandparents.
Andrew Jackson Lyman, or "Uncle Jack" as he was known in the community,
and his wife Elmira Brandenburg Lyman, were true "old timers." Andrew
was the son of John Lyman, Jr., the "first white man to set up residence
on the west bank of the Iroquois." Grandfather's storybook seemed
endless; he could tell about the trips he used to take to Chicago to sell
wheat and corn -- in those days, it took a full week and a good team of
oxen! Or there were all those stories from the Civil War, during which
he nearly died of pneumonia. But the tales he was most frequently called
upon to recount were those of the "early days," rich with Indian lore,
encounters with wild animals, and all the mystery of those times.
Sam also loved the farm for the "spirit of it." With one hundred,
twenty acres of woods, fields and rivers to explore, and a dog named
Sport for companionship, these summer visits to the farm held more
attraction than Christmas!
And the animals! Of all the aspects of nature, none captivated Sam
more than these "forest friends of fur and feather." He was not content
with merely observing these creatures; he yearned for relationships with
them. His mother tells of an early experience in which Sam approached a
flock of Canadian geese. His tiny hand outstretched in a cherub's
gesture of friendship, he begged the huge birds to light on his fingers,
and "when they didn't do so, he bawled loud and long."
With his mind fixed on the prospects for such high adventure, Sam
often found it difficult to concentrate on his performance at school. He
would later describe himself as a "poor student in the classroom, always
skimming by, never flunking, but coming close to it." Frequently he
would lose himself in daydreams of the farm and of wilderness yet
unexplored, and never even hear the teacher call his name.
Sam's mother could see that her boy was very bright, but that his
young head was too obsessed with nature and woodlore to take much
interest in his homework. She would have been worried except for the
fact that Sam read voraciously and showed a definite talent for writing
and playing musical instruments.
So, she continued to encourage his thirst for knowledge of nature by
taking him on long walks to identify trees and flowers, and by spending
long hours reading to him of the adventures of the colorful
French-Canadian traders, the voyageurs, those carefree men who paddled
their birchbark bateaux along the rapids of northern rivers.
This spring, it was particularly difficult for Sam to concentrate.
Of all the vacations to his grandfather's farm, he knew this one would be
the most exciting yet. He was going on his first camping trip! Of
course, he had been camping many times since infancy with his parents,
who loved the outdoors, but this would be his first camping trip with
just his friends and no adults along to slow things down.
As the day of departure from the city drew near, Sam's anticipation
grew. His thoughts were so far away as he sat at his school desk and
stared out the window that his poor teacher finally gave up calling on
him at all. She was probably almost as happy as he when the long awaited
day came.
It was the last day of school. A soft, warm spring breeze sighed
through the schoolroom windows and fluttered Sam's brown hair. He had
prevailed upon his mother that morning to let him wear his "woods
clothes," a red wool shirt with tough khaki britches and little
lumberjack boots with heavy wool socks.
The teacher finally made her obligatory goodbye speech and had them
stand for prayer. Sam heard nothing until the final words, "You may go,
now." Oh, the delicious sense of freedom! School was out, and he was on
his way to Grandfather's farm and a very special camping trip!
The bright yellow flames of the campfire receded slowly,
transforming the old, dark logs into orange embers and finally, dusky red
coals. The entire display was quite similar to the brilliant sunset only
a few hours before. Sam had been observing this process so intently that
he failed to notice his companions turning in one by one as the stars
came out. He was alone by the fire.
As he lay there on his sleeping roll, looking in vain for a glimpse
of the Northern Lights, he was startled by the sound of human voices! As
near as he could tell, they appeared to be coming from a point just
beyond the bend of the river. Although he could not discern how many
there were, they seemed to be in a pleasant mood, and Sam judged them to
be fellow campers who had arrived too late to set up camp during
daylight.
Lighting a lantern, he waved it in circles, hoping to attract the
attention of the party, but without success. He stopped again to listen,
but was greeted only with silence. The voices had vanished!
Puzzled, he returned to camp and got ready for bed. He closed his
eyes, listening to the symphony of the forest. The night was filled with
the songs of crickets, tree toads, and the soothing rush of the river.
Suddenly, Sam heard the voices again! Fascinated, he relit the
lantern, and walked slowly to the river bank. It was tough going; the
thick brush resisted every step, and the absence of the moon heightened
the challenge.
He eventually reached the bank, and waved the lantern as before. No
response. Again, he signaled. Silence.
Slowly, Sam made his way back to camp. He crept back under his
blanket and lay there in the darkness, his mind wrestling with
possibilities. The most likely culprit was, of course, an animal.
Earlier in the day, the boys had noticed fresh tracks made by several
deer and what appeared to be a very large fox or coyote. They had
selected their campsite near these "animal runways" in hopes of catching
a glimpse of these creatures. Could it be that the brilliant flames of
the campfire had kept these forest residents at bay until now? Maybe at
this very moment a magnificent stag stood along the river bank, pausing
for a moment from nocturnal adventures to quench his thirst from the slow
moving waters of the Iroquois!
But no; the sounds Sam had heard were not those which he recognized
as animal noises. They had a distinctly human quality about them -- they
were voices! His imagination raced through the stories his grandfather
had told. There were tales of pioneers, his own family in fact, who had
braved the unknown and uncharted wilderness in the hope of a better life;
of the voyageurs, who had paddled and sung their way down this very river
not long before.
But by far the most exciting possibility: Indians! In earlier
times, this region had been well populated with these people; they were a
true nation whose citizens were as much a part of the forest as the
animals who also lived there. Those days had since passed, but many old
timers in Watseka believed that in some of the more remote areas, small
bands of Indians still survived, living off the land as their ancestors
had done for centuries.
Could these legends be true, Sam wondered? Was it possible that
somewhere else in the forest that night there had been another campfire,
one surrounded by chiefs, braves, and Indian princesses? Sam's mind
played idly with this romantic notion as his thoughts drifted like so
many downy feathers toward sleep.
Suddenly, a twig snapped! The forest, which had been filled with
the songs of the night now seemed strangely silent. Sam lay there in the
dark, more curious than afraid. He could make out the sounds of breaking
brush. The noises were coming from deep within the forest on the other
side of the fire pit and were growing steadily closer. Something was
moving into the camp!
After what seemed an eternity, the bushes parted, revealing a tall
dark figure, clad in deerskin. Sam sat up in astonishment! The Indian
raised his hand, and with an explosive, "How!," disappeared.
The boy awoke with a start, and found himself curled in his blanket
beside the cold ashes of the firering as the eastern sky slowly began to
brighten with the earliest rays of the sun.
He was lying there comfortably, thinking about the previous night,
when he suddenly realized he felt somehow different this morning. He
recognized a feeling of deep kinship and satisfying companionship with
the wilderness, and he somehow knew that this and other wild places held
a special meaning for him.
The sounds Sam heard that night along the banks of the Iroquois
remained a mystery to the young boy. Later, as a naturalist, he wrote:
"The Voices of the Woods...are simply the sounds of the woods...perhaps a
little stream singing over rocks...They are the rustle of leaves, the
rubbing of two trees together, the moaning of wind through barren
boughs. And when we hear these sounds, in our thoughts we liken them to
something in our experience. Thus we think they are voices...Those who
dwell in the woods know these voices well, and they love them as part of
the mysterious beauty of the wilderness. But one must be a good listener
to hear them. We do not catch these voices if our thoughts are in a
whirlwind of our own making."
Sam heard these voices several more times as a youngster, and he
became obsessed for a time with knowing their origin. Eventually,
however, as his teen years progressed and he spent most of his time in
the forest hunting and trapping with his young friends, the memory of the
strange voices faded into a curious childhood fantasy.
Little did he then know how those wilderness voices were to help
shape his life and philosophy.
"Our dominion over the world is the dominion of Love -- not
brutality!"
- Wegimind, quoted in
The Conquest of Grief
Katherine "Kittie" Campbell dozed in the shade of an ancient White
Pine, her back against its enormous trunk. Bees buzzed in and out of
nearby flowers. A family of ducks splashed and dove near the shore of
the sky blue waters of Four Mile Lake. A gentle breeze strummed the tops
of the trees. The tranquility and laziness of the northwoods summer
flowed through her being in a healing flood, soothing away the cares of
the city far away. Her pulse slowed; the unnatural race of Chicago life
ebbed in her veins as her heart adopted the measured rhythm of the vast
forest around her.
Sam and his brother had been the first to introduce this region of
northern Wisconsin to the family. They had visited in the summer of
1909, when Sam was 14 years old. Their Uncle Bill Sloan of Chicago, who
knew the area, had taken the boys by train to the northwoods for a
camping trip. Sam later wrote that he felt he had "someway slipped into
Heaven. The far-flung forests, the myriad lakes, the rushing streams and
particularly the animal life, all added up to a dream come true."
Sam and his brother Don soon had to return to school in the city,
but for many months they talked almost constantly about their wondrous
adventures in the northwoods! Their electric enthusiasm for that far off
paradise crackled and sparked daily through the classrooms and halls of
school, and in the Campbell home. In order to keep the peace, their
parents had to make many vague promises that, yes, maybe they could go up
there "some day."
Actually, Sam's parents were interested in going to the northwoods
for a camping trip. Kittie and her husband Arthur, whom everyone called
"Dad," were great nature enthusiasts. They loved to camp, hike, fish and
canoe, and taught their children to enjoy these sports. Kittie,
especially, loved the wilderness and seemed to actually be a part of it.
It was because of this affinity that young Sam began calling her
Wegimind, the Ojibway Indian word for "mother."
When Sam's Grandfather Lyman died in March of 1912, the Campbell
family, often accompanied by the Sloans, began spending their summers
camping in this area of northern Wisconsin, near the logging settlement
called Three Lakes.
Their favorite camping spot was on the remote shores of a medium
sized, clear lake known as Four Mile Lake. The Campbells with their
three children Don, Sam, and Lucille would ride the train from Chicago on
the Chicago and Northwestern Railway each summer to Three Lakes. After
buying supplies in town and greeting old friends, they would have someone
drive them as far as the roads permitted towards their camp site. At the
roads' end, a mile or so of water still separated them from their camp in
the stand of virgin timber on the east shore of Four Mile Lake. They
would traverse this exciting last leg of their journey by rowboat.
Sam was by now in his late teens, a rather bowlegged, stocky youth
of great strength. Although he stood only about 5'4" tall, no one
thought of him as short because he had a charisma about him of capability
and gentle strength. His brown hair framed a rugged, square-jawed face,
with thick dark brows that accented a pair of remarkably bright blue-gray
eyes. His mouth was usually set in a big friendly smile which revealed a
row of perfect white teeth.
Kittie opened her eyes at the sound of youthful laughter coming from
the direction of camp. She smiled to herself as she recognized Sam's
enthusiastic voice. She was glad to see him so relaxed and happy.
Sometimes, during the long city winters, she grew worried about her
younger son. He would sit for hours and read philosophy, poetry, and
tales of untamed wilderness. Don loved the outdoors, too, but he was a
practical, thoroughly conventional boy. Sam, on the other hand, brooded
so much over these books about unspoiled wild places that he sometimes
became physically ill with his intense longing to go there. Of course,
Kittie loved Don dearly, but she understood her son Sam; they were so
very much alike. Perhaps this knowledge was what worried Kittie most of
all.
As Kittie approached the canvas tent and the stone fireplace, she
heard Sam telling Don, "Ha, you should have seen it! James and I tracked
that deer for two miles before I suddenly caught sight of him feeding in
a small clearing! I was sighting down the barrel, when all of the sudden
there was this snorting sound off to one side in the trees, and the buck
jerked up his head to run! I held my breath and squeezed the trigger.
Of course, all of this happened almost at once! Anyway, I couldn't
believe it, the buck fell! I've never seen such a..." As Sam saw his
mother his voice trailed away into a guilty silence.
Sam felt a stab of intense pain at the sad expression which passed
involuntarily over his mother's face. He knew how she felt about hunting
and trapping, about killing anything. It hurt Kittie Campbell deeply to
see any creature in pain. The rest of her family didn't quite understand
this extreme twist to sweet Wegimind's personality. Her father had been
a hunter and trapper as well as a farmer, and her husband and boys hunted
for sport. Sam had thought nothing of joining his pal James, a boy from
the village, in a hunting expedition.
Kittie had always tried to keep her opinions on the subject from
being abrasive to others, for she realized that to most people of her
time, killing animals for food and sport was simply a way of life, part
of normal culture. She recognized in Sam, however, the deep tenderness
and sensitivity of her own personality. She wondered how he would
eventually deal with these traits.
Don surveyed the tension in the air, and conveniently headed down to
the lake to scoop up a pail of fresh drinking water. When they were
alone, Sam looked at his mother but said nothing. They were unusually
close, always sharing every joy and disappointment with each other,
laughing together, simply enjoying each other's company; but now Sam
stood silent.
Kittie smiled understandingly at her downcast son, put her slender
arm around his waist, and hugged him close. "Oh, Sam, it's ok. Go ahead
and have your boyish fun out in the woods hunting. Have a good time.
There may come a day when you will no longer wish to hunt, but you
shouldn't stop just because I don't care for the sport myself. It takes
a lot of time and maturity to know oneself, Sam."
She looked into the eyes of her son, her normally teasing, joyous
demeanor suddenly serious. "And Sam, when you finally come to know your
own unique philosophy of life, then conduct your life as though you were
the model after which all mankind is sculptured."
She smiled again and gave him a little push. "Now, quit
lollygaggin', and go get some wood for tonight's cooking fire. We're
having good old beans, so they'll need to cook for a while. And how
about playing your guitar after supper so we can sing around the
campfire?"
Sam smiled back gratefully, and turned with a lighter heart to the
forest to look for downed wood.
The cold wind howled in off Lake Michigan with a bone-piercing
cold. The sky hung heavy with dark gray clouds. Tiny snowflakes, driven
before the blast, whirled with the dust and bits of trash down the dirty
city streets.
Sam sat at his writing desk, worriedly watching his mother as she
stood, pensively looking out the window at the dreary Chicago afternoon.
Was it his imagination, or had Mom seemed tired and thin lately? Was she
doing too much for others? Almost every day, some poor soul needing
food, advice, or solace would come to her door. She never turned them
away without help.
That's all, she is just tired, Sam told himself. I'll try to help
her more, do more of the housework. Surely when spring comes and we go
north, the woods will revive her.
Dad and Don worked long hours every day at Chicago's Sloan Valve
Company, which was owned and managed by Sam's "Uncle Bill," William
Sloan. Sam had taught guitar, banjo, and mandolin lessons from his own
studio on Michigan Avenue, and for a time had sold industrial real
estate. Lately, he had stayed home much of the time with his mother and
worked on his writing.
Sam's last years of high school had been difficult. He wasn't
interested in business, or law, or trades, or any of the careers his
friends had decided to pursue. When he imagined himself cooped up day
after day in some dark, dingy office or plant, his whole being rebelled;
he became sick to his stomach, and sometimes actually ill. He attended
Northwestern University and the University of Chicago for a while. He
tried selling real estate, and even taught music. It was rewarding and a
great deal of fun, but wasn't satisfying. He wanted to be outdoors,
devoting all of his time and talent to nature study.
Teachers and friends tried time and again to advise Sam that life is
composed mostly of unpleasant work, not relaxing romps in the woods. He
felt trapped; he knew intuitively that giving in to these practical
demands would somehow pronounce a death sentence on his soul.
Sam considered going back to Watseka to be a farmer like his
grandfather, and his grandfather's grandfather. That would be better; at
least he could be outside most of the time. But it wasn't really what he
wanted. The flat midwestern farmland simply did not convey the mystery
of the forests of the north.
Of course, he could be really adventurous and go out west, or to the
Yukon to look for gold. But no, that was not what he wanted. It was
appealing to think about, but Sam knew he could never be so far from his
beloved family.
The one option Sam could imagine was to become a writer. He could
go on wilderness outings and then write about them. What a perfect
life! And so, Sam had begun to write up the adventures he had during his
summers in the north woods. Several of his articles were published in
various outdoor magazines, and although Sam was proud and delighted, he
was beginning to really worry about the future. He was in his twenties,
without a real career, and still living at home. He simply wasn't making
nearly enough money to live on his own, and he was becoming embarrassed
about letting Don and Dad help support him.
"Mom." Sam pushed his chair back and rose to his feet. "Please go
lie down and rest. I'll finish dusting the furniture."
"I'm OK," Kittie assured him. "I was just thinking about poor Mrs.
Helfrich down the street. Her husband just passed away, you know, and
now she has to run the store as well as raise those two girls alone."
The sympathetic pain in her eyes turned suddenly to a mischievous gleam
as she regarded Sam. "By the way, Sam, I told her you'd be calling on
her daughter Sarah. She's a nice girl, very domestic and delicate. It
would be lovely if you married her, because your great-grandfather's
wife's name was Sarah, too..."
Kittie began to laugh uproariously as she saw the frustration flood
Sam's handsome young face. "Mother," he sputtered, "You know I'm not
interested in getting married! Sarah is a nice girl, I remember her from
grammar school, but she would want to be in the house all the time! She
wouldn't go canoeing or hiking; she'd say it was unladylike! I..." He
paused as he realized his mother was teasing, and laughed sheepishly.
"Mother!"
At this moment the door slammed shut behind Dad and Don as they came
in from work. Dad was singing at the top of his lungs and Don was
grinning as he beat time on his leg to the music. Kittie's face lit up
at the sight of her husband and older son, and she began at once to
spread supper on the round oak table.
Disengaging himself momentarily from the happy chatter around the
supper table, Sam glanced at Wegimind. She was laughing and talking
animatedly. Perhaps she wasn't paler than usual. Surely she was all
right. Oh, of course she was! With renewed assurance in his heart, Sam
joined in the discussion with enthusiasm; and the happy family sat there
in the unbroken circle, talking and joking until long after the food had
disappeared.
The golden rays of the early morning sun slanted through the sitting
room window in dusty shafts, warming Sam's back as he sat at his writing
desk. Smells of baking buttermilk biscuits and frying bacon drifted in
from the kitchen, pleasantly teasing his empty stomach.
Sam heard footsteps. Before turning, he typed the date, June 17,
1927, on the cover letter for the article he had just finished.
Sam looked up. The doctor with his black bag soberly emerged from
Mother's room and closed the door behind him. Dad and Don rose from the
sofa, and Lucille came into the sitting room from the kitchen, drying her
hands on a dish towel.
Sam knew in his heart that everything would be fine; Mom would be
her old self again in a few days. Even though she was ill, she had
seemed cheerful, happy, and serene. True, she had made a few attempts to
speak to Sam about the possibility of her death, but Sam had immediately
shushed these conversations with, "Oh, Mom, you'll be fine."
The doctor stepped up to Sam's father and stood regarding his old
friend for a moment. "I'm sorry, Art. Kittie is dead."
Sam stood for a moment, unbelieving. Everything in his world
disappeared; time stopped. He stood alone in a vast dark space, alone
except for the beloved presence in the other room. He walked in a dream
towards the bedroom door. Every step in the enormous darkness rang
hideously in his ears, like a hammer on steel. He opened the door. The
whining of the hinges as it swung open threatened to burst his eardrums.
He looked down where his mother lay. Suddenly, he was alone, terribly
alone, in the vast dark space, standing beside the bed. He did not know
the person, or thing, on the bed. It was not Wegimind. Wegimind was
gone, and with her, half of his soul.
He turned to flee the dark cavern with its horrible bed, but as he
ran, the darkness stretched on and on.
Dad watched numbly as his younger son ran from the house. Even in
his own shocked state, he felt himself worry about Sam. The young man
had the capacity to hurt so deeply, and this was his first personal
experience with death. How would he deal with the loss of his mother,
whom he adored and idolized so much?
Sam ran until his breath was ragged and gasping. As he slowed to a
walk, he began to recognize the streets and buildings around him. They
looked different, somehow -- as though he were seeing them through the
eyes of a stranger. He was the stranger. Was he Sam Campbell? He felt
different, the same but different, like an evil twin.
Evil, he thought. That's what causes death. I have seen evil face
to face. His carefree and joyous spirit seemed to have been wiped away
by the darkness, and his being filled with black bitterness and despair.
Ugly emotions which had been mere abstractions for him until now suddenly
appeared as intimate pieces of his soul. At his shocked recognition,
they mocked him.
Some time later, Sam turned back toward the house. His heart was a
cold weight in his chest. He knew what he must do. He had been
deceived, Wegimind had been deceived. Life was not a happy, cheerful
game. It was not the delicate scent of spring flowers, or the waters of
a pristine lake sparkling in the summer sun. These were the pretty
wrappings on the gift, but when the wrappings were happily torn away and
the box opened, it was full of moldering decay and demonic laughter.
Sam knew he could not live in such a world. There was, after all
his struggling to find his purpose in life, no purpose in life. He would
refuse to live, to play this grotesque game, any longer.
Weak kneed, chests heaving with grief and despair, Sam and his
father leaned against each other for support. The weeping cascades of a
willow tree, quivering in the warm summer breeze, encircled the two men
in an emerald canopy.
"I guess Wegimind would be pleased with this lot," Dad finally
managed. His voice sounded old and hopeless. "Come on, Sam, let's buy
this one and go home." He turned, suddenly a tired, bent old man, and
began shuffling toward the car.
Home. The word stabbed Sam's chest like a dagger. There was no
home; there would never again be a home, for Wegimind had died today.
Waves of vertigo and nausea slammed against his body. He sank onto the
thick green carpet of grass with a tortured gasp of fresh anguish. The
azure sky, the golden sun warm on his face, the verdant green of growing
things; all were horrible shades of gray to Sam, and the darkness pressed
close about him as he lay on the ground in a fetal position, his arms
convulsively encircling his knees.
Dad turned. The stark fear he suddenly felt for his son immediately
cleared his own grief stricken, numbed brain. Although his own heart
felt completely broken, his own eyes were full of bitter tears, and he
only wished to live in order to care for his children, he recognized, in
a sort of detached way, that his reactions were normal. Sam's pain, on
the other hand, seemed impossibly horrible, as though all the griefs of
the universe had been poured into his young soul. How could anyone,
except characters in melodramatic paperback fiction, have the capacity to
feel such anguish? He gently pulled his son to his feet and circled one
of Sam's limp arms around his own neck, supporting the blindly staggering
young man all the way back to their car.
Dad helped Sam into the passenger seat, then slid behind the wheel.
As the car pulled out of the little country churchyard and began the
drive back to the city, Sam's blinding, wrenching pain eased in a
bittersweet haze of utter exhaustion. With a seeming clarity of thought,
he recalled his resolution to end his own life. A sort of fateful sense
of peace seemed to drug his senses as he stared out the window at the
hypnotizing march of the roadside fences.
What! What could be happening? A sudden, glowing golden light
appeared to radiate throughout the car! It penetrated Sam's darkened,
numbed mind, and he snapped completely alert. His nightmarish state
dissolved as Reality with its secure warmth seemed to flood his soul.
We were silent, almost sullen, in our inward battle against grief and
bitterness.
Suddenly the car in which we were driving, the road, and the
countryside seemed to light with a most heavenly glow! It was as though
the very weight of grief had cracked the confining walls of materiality,
and a healing ray of Heaven burst through. I saw no vision, heard no
voice, but felt myself inundated with a deluge of happiness, totally
unlike that which comes from even the highest, worldly pleasures...
Oh, what words can I find that will tell the wild ecstasy of that
precious moment? I think I did not breathe during the experience. I
actually felt concern as to my sanity -- then found immediate assurance
that this, and this alone, was sane!
I looked about me. The world seemed to have stood still. The car
lacked motion. The wayside trees possessed a new lustre which was apart
from color. Marvelous beauty adorned the landscape, surpassing anything
I have ever before seen. Particularly was I impressed with the beauty of
one little bird which flew up from the road and lit on the fence. Though
he was some distance off, and I had only a fleeting glimpse of him, it
seemed as though he was right before my eyes, and stayed there
indefinitely. I remember the brilliant marking of his plumage, which I
might have called sombre under other circumstances. How conscious I felt
of the omnipresence of LIFE! It was as though the WORD had been carved
in my heart, so that I knew and saw nothing else. All this was outside
of myself, and the experience seemed to hinge on my looking away and
outward, for I had the sense that down somewhere within my own, erroneous
thinking was all that which grieved me, and that it was my own
creation!
How long this lasted I cannot say. All time seemed suspended and
this vision of Reality bore no relationship to it. There was a sense of
comfort in it which was supreme. Somehow it suggested a cool refreshing
breeze on a torrid day, though the metaphor is woefully inadequate. It
was then I saw that "death" is a deception, and grief was as impossible
that moment with me as sin was with the MASTER!
I glanced at Father: then came the greatest joy! His face beamed
with happiness! He, too, was living this sublime experience! I shall
never forget the heavenly expression of his countenance. I wondered if
the happiness I felt was as apparent. We could not speak at the time,
and later spoke only with difficulty, for human language offered no names
for our experience. But we had the joy of corroboration, and by the
slightest reference knew that our experiences had been the same. One
outstanding fact was that in no way did this savor of the mysterious --
it seemed divinely natural, as though this moment were predestined in
creation.
Dad and Sam soon reached the house, still elated by their marvelous
experience. Relatives had already begun pouring in. One of Sam's first
cousins who lived a day's drive from Chicago had just arrived. He had
loved Wegimind dearly, but his face was strangely guarded. Sam wondered
abstractly why his cousin's eyes did not betray the deep pain he must
feel.
As Sam stepped forward to greet his cousin, he wondered with some
trepidation if anyone noticed his own dry eyes and peaceful expression.
He was half afraid the radiant joy in his heart would spill over onto his
face and offend a mourner who did not understand. Sam hesitated as he
came face to face with his cousin and recognized an unusual expression in
his relatives's eyes.
The cousin must have seen something in Sam's face, too, because
after a silent moment, he said, "Sam, come over here where we can talk.
I have something I'd like to discuss. I have had an experience,--" He
looked hesitantly at Sam, who was nodding knowingly, then went on to
describe the very event which had happened to Sam and Dad! The cousin
had had the same experience at the same time of day.
No sooner had his cousin gone on to talk with someone else than
Sam's sister approached him with the same story! She had been doing
housework at the time when the wonderful encounter occurred. Don also
corroborated the experience.
The long day drew to a close. Sam sought out an empty room and sat
down in an easy chair beside a window. He smiled as he heard laughter in
the other room. Strange how the events of the day permitted laughter,
and the lightheartedness of his own soul. The empty horror of the
morning, his cold resolution to end his life, the glorious Presence he
had felt in the car -- all these scenes swirled through his mind as he
tried to sort out the events of the day.
A strange shuffling, scratching noise intruded itself into Sam's
thoughts. He looked down at the hardwood floor, and to his great
astonishment saw the neighbor's dog, Count, crawling along the floor on
his stomach toward the chair. The little mongrel had found an open door,
and had come looking for his friend Sam. Count whined as he crawled
right up to Sam's feet and began licking his shoes.
Sam lifted the flop-eared dog into his lap. Count pressed his hairy
head with all his might against Sam's neck, and remained in that position
for fully half an hour. Somehow the dog had empathically known his
friend needed emotional support at this time.
Sam stroked the dog's wirey coat and stared out the window into the
cold Chicago night. The stars were dimly visible. The wind whined
mournfully through the window screen and rattled the glass. He turned
from the dark scene and impulsively hugged the little brown dog.
"Count, with such love as this in the world, no sorrow can last
long!"
Soon after Wegimind's death, Don, Dad, Lucille and Sam left for
Three Lakes, Wisconsin. After camping on Four Mile Lake for several
summers, the Campbell family had eventually purchased a tidy cabin and
some land along the west shore. Here the four now retreated to immerse
themselves in creation, letting the summer sun bake, the wind scour, the
rain rinse from their souls the tragedy of June.
The small cabin blending into the trees was full of happy memories.
Sam could hear the laughter and singing, and could see his mother's
smiling face at every turn. He half expected to feel a constant sorrow
when faced with these phantoms from better days, but the roughly
comfortable cabin, the woods and the lake, even the memories, comforted
him.
Sam did feel the need to rest, but he mostly wished to isolate
himself from the world for a time so he could think. He did not feel
satisfied accepting the comfort of his spiritual encounter without
vigorously pursuing a knowledge of the One he had encountered.
The Campbell family, though Christian, had not belonged to any
particular denomination; they worshiped God under the deeply spiritual
leadership of Wegimind, who was not comfortable with often divisive
sectarianism. Although Sam had learned from his mother a deep awe of the
majesty, beauty and goodness of God, he didn't have many theological
roots.
Sam felt he must consolidate his spiritual experience with a
coherent philosophy of life. He decided to withdraw from the working
world for several months in order to spend many hours each day
meditating, praying, and studying what the wise ones through the ages had
written concerning the meaning of life. He would spend most of this time
of solitude on the property up at Three Lakes. During these months, Sam
read nearly all the great classics -- the Bible, Emerson, Tolstoy,
Whitman, Bergson, Tennyson, Dante, William James -- looking for
descriptions of spiritual experiences such as his.
A strange transformation had come over Sam as he read about the love
and manly gentleness of Jesus of Nazareth. He enjoyed the outdoors more
than ever, but he began to see in nature certain revelations of God's
character, and began to think of the wilderness as a house of worship.
He not only lost his interest in hunting and trapping; he became repulsed
by the thought of killing or injuring any living thing. Each life was a
miracle to be marveled at and adored. He banned hunting and trapping on
his land, and encouraged others to do the same.
Sam was sociable and extremely likable, but in some sense he had
always been a bit of a loner, dreaming his own dreams and going his own
ways. But now, even though he continued to cherish solitude and
individuality, he began to see his fellow human beings in the same light
he was seeing nature. Although he had always been a sensitive young man,
he now felt new interest in the lives and cares of others.
As he learned more and more about God, he began to feel a mission to
tell others, especially those in sorrow who had just lost a loved one,
about the God of love and the healing He brings. The same spiritual
leadership qualities so dominant in the character of Wegimind began to
evidence themselves in Sam. He began to invite people over for hikes and
campfire suppers. There was plenty of laughter and silliness at these
gatherings, but Sam always endeavored to promote an overall atmosphere of
spirituality and peace, and people always left his woodland home
refreshed and blessed.
In honor of his mother, Sam decided to call the property on Four
Mile Lake "The Sanctuary of Wegimind," for it had become a sanctuary for
the worship of God, a sanctuary of protection for wildlife, and a
sanctuary free from stress for the healing of tired and troubled human
souls.
Sam soon began writing private and public letters of hope and
encouragement which he sent to grieving people all over the world. His
Letters from the Sanctuary became so well known and sought after
that a friend offered to print them in book form for wider distribution.
This was the first of Sam Campbell's books, The Conquest of
Grief.
Also during this time, Sam wrote a series of philosophical nature
essays known as the Sanctuary Letters. His friend printed these
in individual booklets, each beautifully bound in richly-coloured
velvet. The Sanctuary of Wegimind, The Finding of Vanishing Lake,
Ebony Mansions, Naturalness, and Frozen Memories were full of
rich descriptions of the north woods, and reflected Sam's growing
philosophical convictions. These booklets were eventually included in
Sam Campbell's book of essays, Nature's Messages.
Sam was still frustrated and confused about his career, or lack
thereof, but he had at last found something he believed to be more
fundamental than even a career; a philosophy of life, strong convictions,
and a growing faith in God. And although wistful thoughts of his mother
frequently brought tears to his eyes, no longer did death, destruction,
and the power of evil bind his soaring soul.
It was late in the summer of 1929.
A lone birchbark canoe moved silently along the north shore of Four
Mile Lake in the early morning light. A family of loons watched from the
protective shadows of a small island a few hundred yards away.
Occasionally one of the parent birds would lift its head and call out its
haunting wail.
To the loons, the canoe appeared to be a log floating along the far
bank, partially obscured by the mists rising from the warm water into the
chilly morning air. The electric blue chamois shirt worn by the man who
guided the craft seemed to the loons a piece of the sky come down to get
a morning drink from the lake. They did not see the silent j-strokes,
nor the little whirling vortices left behind by the broad blade of his
paddle in the silky water.
The man's heavy khaki britches were tucked into high moccasin boots
laced up to his knees. His prematurely graying, thinning brown hair
ruffled in the slight breeze caused by the forward motion of the canoe.
The movements of his powerful arms and broad chest were fluid and
unhurried; he and his bark craft formed a perfectly natural part of the
wild surroundings.
Sam felt the peace of the morning fill his soul. He nudged the bow
of his canoe onto a short sandy beach, and lay back in the gently rocking
craft, his face turned up towards the deepening blue of the morning sky.
His eyes closed.
He could see himself standing there behind the lectern to one side
of the wide, darkened stage. He could smell the varnish on the wooden
flooring, the musty odor of the heavy velvet drapery cloaking the wings,
the dust burning on the small light bulb which cast his typed narration
notes in dim yellow light. He could see children in the front rows of
the auditorium, their excited faces varying hues in the light reflected
from the screen. Further back were dark outlines of more people, adults,
unfamiliar presences filling the entire room. Over their heads hung a
cone of light emanating from the projector far to the back of the
auditorium. The beam was a collage of shifting colors filtering through
lazily drifting motes of dust. He could hear the soothing hum of the
projector, the clicking of the reels. He could hear his own voice,
amplified by the narration microphone into strange resonances and
cadences, filling every corner of the room.
A fat porcupine waddled onto the flickering screen. "Here's an old
porcupine, his quills swaying back and forth like a load of hay as he
walks. He has about 30,000 quills which he uses to protect himself. His
tail can lash out with terrific speed, almost instantly embedding quills
in an aggressor. Perhaps this gives rise to the false myth that porkies
throw their quills.
"He's actually a fine, intelligent creature, but if one doesn't
respect his unique prowess, he will prove the wisdom of that ancient
adage: 'He who sitteth on a porcupine...'" Sam paused for effect, "'shall
rise again!'"
Loud laughter filled the hall. Sam could see the delighted faces of
the children as they squealed out in raucous laughter. He could see
careworn adult faces near the front splitting into happy grins. That
simple little porcupine was for a few precious moments single handedly
holding back the gloom of hard life in a big city.
"People haven't liked porkies very much because they are
bark-eaters. They will sometimes live on a tree until they've girdled it
completely -- and then, of course, the tree dies. We must preserve
porcupines, however, because they play their own unique and necessary
role in nature. They actually thin out the forest so the remaining trees
will be even stronger and healthier.
"We must preserve all these wild places and creatures which bring us
so much pleasure. There must be places of great natural beauty where our
young people can go to clear their heads of the world's meanness. We
must protect wilderness, not only in order to preserve the physical
conditions necessary for human life, but also in order to preserve the
quiet sanctuaries necessary for the life of the human soul.
"It has been a great pleasure to be with you this evening. God
bless you, and good night."
Applause rose in an almost deafening crescendo, but to Sam it seemed
far away. His eyes were riveted on the children in the front rows, their
eyes flashing with excitement as they jumped up and down, pointed at the
now blank screen, and chattered to each other.
He stood there behind the lectern as the house lights came on and
continued to watch the children as they rushed toward the stage, holding
out their printed programs for autographs. Here lies the future of
the conservation movement, the future of the wilderness, the future of
our world. If these little people are taught today how to love nature,
what a difference it will make tomorrow!
Sam sat up in the canoe, his blue eyes blinking in the bright
morning light, but his mind was still far away in that darkened, dusty
auditorium. He pushed away from the beach with his paddle, and began
stroking along the shore once again.
Sam had spent the time since the death of his mother here at their
cabin, reading, writing, studying nature, and learning how to operate the
new moving picture equipment he had purchased. During this time, his
developing philosophy of life had heavily influenced the way in which he
saw the natural world. Nature had become a source of spiritual
inspiration to him, and his new understanding of God's regard for every
living thing had caused him to show new respect for the earth. He no
longer hunted, littered, or thoughtlessly uprooted plants. As far as
possible, he traveled through the wilderness without a trace, leaving
everything in nature just as he had found it. He stepped around the tiny
violets growing on the trail, and avoided trampling anthills. A
half-joking rumor spread along the distant lakeshore cabins that Sam
Campbell provided cotton for the mice in his house to use for nests! The
neighbors would laugh fondly -- they loved the humorous, kind man on Four
Mile Lake -- but they also shook their heads in wonder at his apparent
eccentricity.
Sam had also joined the infant conservation movement, along with
other far-sighted individuals who could see the terrible end result of
human greed and exploitation of the planet. At that time in the "roaring
twenties," conservation was hardly a popular notion; it would not become
widely recognized until the ecology movement of the sixties, and even
then would not become a vital concern of the general public until much
later.
Concern for the future of his beloved wilderness and even the future
of the planet encouraged Sam to produce a film of the flora and fauna of
northern Wisconsin and a script to raise public awareness. He had shown
his film in the Chicago area several times during the previous winter.
To Sam's surprise, these first nature lectures on the forests of
northern Wisconsin had been a huge success. He had even attracted the
attention of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway, who had contacted him
about filming vacation advertisements for their northern rail
destinations such as Eagle River and Three Lakes. Later, they hired him
to lead tours through national parks.
Sam was beginning to realize that his writings would not, at least
for some time, provide him with an adequate income. These lectures, on
the other hand, could provide the bulk of an income... A plan was
forming in Sam's mind; a vision of an exciting future of travel,
wilderness exploration, nature study, writing, and lecturing. He would
spend each summer in nature, filming his adventures and writing a story
book about them, then he would travel about the country each winter
showing his films, lecturing on nature and conservation, and selling his
books.
The thought of such a life filled Sam's adventurous heart with joy!
What a wonderful way to spend a happy life, and yet at the same time help
protect the wilderness and be a service to others by providing them with
wholesome entertainment and education.
Now that school had begun, the lecture season was fast approaching.
Sam's summer days at the Sanctuary had come to a close. He recalled with
a touch of apprehension that he was scheduled to give his first lecture
of the season on the following Monday for a Chicago high school lyceum.
He felt sure his new moving picture of wildlife antics was a good one,
but the delicate balance of his finances and the lack of a steady income
had given him a few sleepless nights lately, his excitement about his new
career notwithstanding. Would he really be able to make ends meet?
Sam rounded a point of land, and headed for the homey brown and
green cabin standing among the stately white pines along the shore. The
morning mist was dissipating in the heat of the sun, now high over the
eastern shoreline. The other-worldly mystery of the morning evaporated
along with the fog as Sam's head filled with down-to-earth visions of a
hearty breakfast of bacon and coffee. His dreams of the future, along
with its nagging doubts and fears, vanished as he anticipated with
pleasure the rugged work planned for the day.
Right after breakfast, Sam headed in to town to buy some groceries
for the campfire supper he was planning with friends that evening.
By now the sun was high overhead and the sky had become a deep azure
blue. A lazy breeze ruffled the surface of the lake as Sam rowed slowly
toward the channel leading to Big Fork Lake. He had taken the
comparatively sluggish rowboat instead of his sleek canoe because he knew
he had to transport groceries back to the cabin.
He did not propel his craft with any great sense of purpose; in
fact, a casual observer would not have guessed his ultimate destination
to be the grocery store! He moved in a relaxed, unhurried way, as if he
were determined to let the beauty of his surroundings soak into his very
soul. His senses were alive with the movement and sound and color on
every side.
His sharp eyes noticed the tall, narrow form of a great blue heron
posing rigidly among the reeds along the western shoreline. He smiled
delightedly at the mighty whoosh from the wings of a loon which flew
close overhead on its way down the lake. He saw a large fish jump and
watched the ring on the surface of the water expanding away toward
shore.
In those days, no road led to the Campbell cabin. To reach town,
Sam had to row down the length of Four Mile Lake, then turn southwest
into the narrow channel which opened into neighboring Big Fork Lake. He
kept his car parked at the public lake access on the eastern shore of Big
Fork, right off Four Mile Creek Road.
The Thunder Lake Store on Highway 32 was about half way between
Virgin and Whitefish Lakes, approximately four miles south of the landing
where Sam kept his car. In the days when Sam and his family had first
begun coming up from Chicago, the area was being heavily logged. This
store belonged to Thunder Lake Lumber Company of Rhinelander, and was
situated along a narrow gauge railroad which transported the felled
timber. It was built as a depot to supply the logging camps to the
north. As more people moved into the area, however, and as the logging
of the region slowed, most of the store's business came from the local
residents.
The store was managed by a Three Lakes man named Cunningham. Sam
knew who he was, of course, and had spoken to him many times when in his
store for groceries.
Sam drove slowly along the winding, dusty track. He startled
several deer, which darted across the road, white tails held high. A
crow-sized pileated woodpecker flew its undulating path down the road in
front of the car, looking for all the world like some prehistoric
creature with its elevated red crest.
Sam turned left onto Highway 32 and drove past Virgin Lake. Soon
the narrow road straightened, and a group of frame houses came into
view. These were the homes built by the railroad for its employees. The
midday sun shone down warmly as Sam parked the Buick in the dusty lot by
the lumber yard and boarding house, and walked across the road to the
large two-story frame building beside the railroad tracks. The supply
warehouses were in the back of this building, and the front was occupied
by the grocery store.
He opened the front door of the store and stepped inside. The
pleasantly cool interior seemed dim in contrast to the bright glare
outside, and it smelled of spices and fresh vegetables.
Sam was greeted by a friendly man behind the counter. "Hello there!
How are things over at Four Mile Lake?" the tall, trim man asked with a
warm smile.
As Sam stood talking, three remarkably beautiful children trooped
energetically through the door carrying school books and talking
excitedly. The energy level of the room rose so dramatically, Sam
wondered if he had suddenly been transported to the center of a hurricane
or earthquake. The two little girls were of grade school age, slender,
with lovely dark hair and eyes. The boy was a handsome, strong-looking
lad in his early teens.
"I'll bet there are Indians still living out there!" The older of
the two girls looked very confident as she spoke.
"Oh, Jean, don't be silly! There are not." The boy rolled his eyes
tolerantly at his sister's folly.
"Are there still Indians living out by Four Mile Lake, Daddy?" the
younger girl called out. "One of our friends at school said so." Three
pairs of expectant eyes turned to the man.
"This gentleman lives on Four Mile. Why don't you ask him?" The
grocer turned mischievous eyes on his smiling customer.
Sam squatted down to the younger childrens' level, and smiled
broadly. The children felt drawn to this stranger's open, kind face and
friendly manner. Their expectant eyes fixed on his.
To give himself time to think, Sam said "Well, I'm sure you know of
the Potawatomi Indian John Shabodock who lives near here. He's a real
chief. Sometimes he comes into town." The children nodded, but were
still waiting for the answer to their question.
"But are there Indians still living out at Four Mile Lake?" Sam
paused, noting the bated breath and hopeful expressions. Even the boy
looked hopeful! "You know, I feel very sad when I think about how we
white people took away all their land and cut down their ancient trees."
Sam's face had become solemn. He felt he should take the opportunity to
inject a note of reality. The children looked distressed. Sam continued
more cheerfully:
"Well, I do know that not so long ago a real Indian named Ben lived
in a small shack in that little clearing on the north shore. In fact,
I've spoken to Ben. He told me stories about a wolverine that used to
visit his cabin. So, I guess if an Indian lived there just a few years
ago, it is possible that there may be another Indian still living in the
area."
It was the right thing to say! The children were looking at Sam as
if he were the Indian from Four Mile Lake! Sam recognized in the
childrens' rapt expressions the awe and longing for adventure and
wilderness which he had felt at their age, and which he admittedly still
felt. Sometimes as a boy he had wished so much for wilderness that he
had literally become sick.
"I'm Sam. What are your names?"
The older girl smiled with importance. "I'm Jean Cunningham, this
is my little sister Beth, and this is my brother Howard. My Dad runs
this place."
The father proffered his hand to Sam. "You know, we've known of
each other for several years, but we never have really introduced
ourselves. I'm Roy, and you've just met the children."
"I'm Sam Campbell. Our family has come up here pretty much every
summer to vacation for the last 17 years. But I'm going to be living
here from now on except for a few of the winter months."
They stood there talking easily for a long time. LeRoy Cunningham
knew a lot about the history of the area. He had been a railroad
dispatcher in Wausau and Antigo before moving with his family to Three
Lakes in 1920 to manage the supply depot.
When there was a natural lull in the conversation, Roy Cunningham
said, "Say, Sam, why don't you come over to the house and meet my wife
Ida? It's just down the road from here. Howard, would you watch the
store for a few minutes? I'll be right back."
Sam quickly collected his groceries, and went with Roy and the two
girls to the Cunningham home. Ida Cunningham was gracious and kind, and
Sam had an overwhelming sense that he already knew these sweet people as
close friends. He was surprised at how comfortable and at ease he felt
in their presence.
"We hear you've banned hunting and trapping on your land." Ida
spoke up.
Sam nodded. "Yes, I've come to the place where I don't get any joy
out of hunting or trapping anymore. In fact, it's becoming difficult for
me to understand how I ever considered it 'sport' to kill defenseless
animals." Sam spoke frankly, without any tone of condemnation.
"Besides, I'm a wildlife photographer, and I want word to get around in
animal society that my land is a safe place." For a moment Sam wondered
if these people might find his aversion to hunting offensive, as did many
of the locals. But he thought he read approval in their eyes.
As Sam was getting ready to leave, it felt completely natural to
invite these new friends over to the Sanctuary that evening for the
campfire supper. The Cunninghams seemed delighted by the invitation, and
when all the necessary arrangements had been made, Sam returned with his
groceries to Four Mile Lake to finish the day's work and prepare for his
guests.
The sun went down that evening in a brilliant array of colors. The
glassy surface of Four Mile Lake was stained with shifting shades of
gold, baby blue, pink, purple, and forest green. A thin, vertical column
of smoke rose like a flag, welcoming the four canoes entering the far end
of the lake. As they approached, they could make out the leaping orange
flames of the campfire along the shore, and the form of Sam Campbell as
he stacked a load of wood near the fire pit.
As soon as Sam noticed the canoes floating on the colored tapestry
of the lake, he waved happily and called out to them. Sam Campbell's
guests always felt welcomed. The way he focused all his attention on the
one he was greeting made that person feel like the most important person
in the world.
The campfire supper was a huge success, and everyone seemed to have
a genuinely good time. There was lots of good food and easy
conversation, and certainly no lack of entertainment. The three Campbell
men made sure of that! The Cunninghams could see how Dad, Don and Sam
Campbell had gotten their reputation for crazy jokes, teasing, and
hilarious conversation.
The giggling of the Cunningham children repeatedly punctuated the
happy babble as Sam took every opportunity to tease them. Most adults
have a way of ignoring children when they are with other adult friends,
but Sam Campbell made the children feel like members of the circle as he
listened to their comments and frequently addressed remarks to them.
When the baked beans, hotdogs, popcorn, and cake had all disappeared
and everyone was lounging comfortably in the warm circle of firelight,
Sam produced his guitar.
"This guitar has been around Hunter Island, you know," Sam said as
he fondly patted the slightly battered instrument.
At this announcement, several of the guests looked up with
interest. The Cunningham children looked especially curious. They were
clearly waiting to hear more.
"Way up in Minnesota," Sam began, his eyes sparkling with
excitement, "on the very border of the United States and Canada, lies a
vast roadless wilderness called the Quetico-Superior 'canoe country.'
There is nearly more water there than land, and the only efficient way to
travel in the summer is by canoe. Canoe country is the land made famous
by the travels of the French-Canadian Voyageur fur traders, who paddled
with their merchandise along those lake and river 'highways.'
"In those days, one of the main routes lay along what is today the
international boundary. Another main route was farther north, going from
Saganaga, through Kawnipiminicock and Sturgeon Lakes, and into Lac La
Croix. The area in between these two major waterways is called 'Hunter
Island.' I'll be going there again, soon, I hope. You can really find
solitude up there!
"Let me teach you a Voyageur chanson," Sam continued. "The
voyageurs sang as they paddled, and they sang around their campfires at
night. They were rugged, carefree, and loved to sing."
Sam strummed a few introductory chords on his guitar, then he, Dad
and Don began singing vigorously in French,
They sang other songs, too. "There Is a Long, Long Trail Awinding,"
"O Danny Boy," "Tenting Tonight," and "Open Mine Eyes" floated over the
water. For over an hour, their songs echoed across the black lake,
mingling with the sounds of the night. Finally, they sang,
Do you think what the end of a perfect day,
Can mean to a tired heart,
When the sun goes down with a flaming ray,
And dear friends have to part?
Well, this is the end of a perfect day,
Near the end of a journey, too,
And it holds a thought that is big and strong,
With a wish that is kind and true.
For memory has painted this perfect day,
In colors that never fade,
And we find at the end of a perfect day,
The soul of a friend we've made!
A young man finally broke the reverie in low tones. "Sam, how can
we explain all the pain and suffering in the world? What about hatred
and meanness and war? How can a loving God permit these things?"
Sam reflected quietly for a moment before he spoke. This perceptive
young friend had just verbalized the question which had sent Sam to the
depths of despair, and then on a redemptive spiritual journey, scarcely
two years before.
"Well," Sam began slowly, choosing his words carefully. "I cannot
explain why living creatures feel pain. Nor can I explain why the plants
and even the inanimate natural beauties of this earth suffer destruction
and ruin, often from the hand of man. I do, however, believe that
destruction, pain, meanness and hatred are not the truly natural order of
things. In the truly natural universe, the truly real universe, order,
harmony, peace, and happiness are the rule, because these are the traits
of the Creator."
Sam paused. A barred owl called its distinctive eight hoots from
somewhere in the region of Four Mile Creek.
"This appears to leave something of a contradiction, I know," he
continued slowly. "I can only conclude that the world as we perceive it
is unnatural and, in some sense, unreal. We are not seeing the entire
picture."
The young questioner looked up at Sam for a moment before turning
his gaze back to the fire. His brow furrowed in thought as he stared
into the depths of the dancing flames. "So how can we cope with this
day-to-day, unnatural world?"
Sam nodded to show he understood the question. "My sweet mother
died two years ago last June. I thought I would die from the grief." He
paused, remembering. "Then I was blessed to be given a very real
encounter with the presence of the Divine. In His presence, the darkness
fled from my soul. I still didn't understand the pain, but God's
presence was enough. It was the true Reality.
"In the biblical story of Job, Job's wife and friends all discussed
the subject of suffering and gave the popular answers of the day. They
said that since Job was suffering so terribly, he must have done
something wrong, and God was punishing him.
"But at the end of the story, God Himself showed up and rebuked the
friends for their false portrayal of His character. He reminded Job that
human vision of life is very limited and distorted, and reminded him of
the power and enormity of God. In the end, Job found the true reality of
life to be in God's presence.
"So when we have the divine Presence with us, we learn to live by
the truly natural rules of the universe. Scripture counsels us to dwell
on things that are true, honest, just, pure, lovely, and of good report.
'If there be any virtue, and if there be any praise, think on these
things.'"
Sam spoke earnestly, without any hint of embarrassment. "I believe
that faith means a conviction, a trust deep down in the heart, that God
is completely good and loving, and that His universe runs on the law of
kindness. When we allow love to rule in our hearts as Jesus Christ did,
we begin to enter into Reality as citizens of the heavenly kingdom."
The group sat for some time in reflective silence. The diamond
stars shining through black arms of fir and spruce, the gentle lapping of
wavelets onto the beach, and the distant wail of a loon added spiritual
power to Sam's words.
Although it was time to leave, no one wished to interrupt the
powerful mood of the night. One by one, the guests said soft goodbyes
and slipped quietly away into the darkness. The Cunninghams lingered for
a while around the fire after the others had gone.
"Sam," Roy Cunningham said earnestly, "the things you said tonight
were insightful. Do you belong to a particular church?"
Sam shook his head. "Not yet, but I've looked into several, and
have found one which seems to most closely match my own convictions." He
named a small but vigorous denomination. "I've been going to the local
church near my home in Chicago. Do you happen to know if there's one in
this area?"
Roy and Ida looked surprised, then glanced at each other and
smiled. Ida said warmly, "Why, yes, we do; there's one in Eagle River.
That happens to be our home church! Would you like to go with us this
Sunday?"
Sam Campbell didn't fully realize it that evening around the
campfire, but he had entered a new era of fulfillment in his life. He
would find a fellowship of Christians, a church home, in the little white
frame building on the corner of 3rd and Pine in the nearby town of Eagle
River. And in the Cunninghams, he would find another home; true,
lifelong friends who became as beloved as family.
"Sam!" Bobby grabbed his friend's shoulders and shook them with
enthusiastic abandon. "Hello in there! Let's get the stuff in the car!
Let's GO!"
Sam smiled warmly at his young companion, then closed his eyes and
briefly shook his head. "Well, Bobby old pal, I guess you could say I'm
getting cold feet." He surveyed the mound of gear still piled in the
rowboat. "Do you realize I've spent my last cent on this trip? We
barely have enough money to buy gas for the car on the way up and back.
By the time we get back, if we get back," he cast Bobby an amused glance,
"I won't have a penny to my name."
It was summertime, early 1930's. The "Roaring Twenties" had
collapsed on Black Thursday, October 24, 1929, into the Great
Depression. Times were hard, and fear of the future lined every face.
Chicago was gloomy and full of pessimism. Even the town of Three Lakes,
deep in the magical wooded northlands, felt economic hardship.
"Moonshining" was rampant and tolerated, and there were fights in the
streets.
But here in the forest Sanctuary where Sam lived and worked, life
went on much as usual. The uncounted lakes and streams, the trees
swaying in the wind, the fishing raccoons and diving loons, the snorting
deer and lumbering bear -- all these were oblivious to the financial
disaster. As was a certain excitable young man.
"Come on, Sam, you're a worry wart. You're smart enough to figure
the money out later." He pretended to look at Sam critically. "Well,
maybe you're not that smart...but at least you know enough about edible
wild plants to live off the land. Sam, if we don't leave soon, we won't
reach Ely before the boarding house closes for the night!"
"OK, let's go, Bobby." Sam shrugged, and rolled his eyes in mock
resignation at Dad and Don, who stood nearby on the dock. As he finished
lashing the canoe to the roof of the car, and loaded the gear from the
rowboat into the trunk and backseat, he muttered, "Go ahead and send me
to the poor house. You can come visit me there sometimes..."
"Huh?" Bobby poked his head out of the back seat where he was
arranging the packs. "What did you say, Sam?"
"I said it's about time we got on the road! Why don't you hurry
up? You're making us late!" Sam grabbed the steering wheel and swung
into the driver's seat. Bobby jumped into the passenger seat and slammed
the door with unnecessary vigor, his face glowing with excitement.
"'Bye Dad, 'bye Don! We'll see you in about a month!" Sam and
Bobby waved their arms through the open windows of the Buick as Sam
smoothly let in the clutch and headed the car down Four Mile Lake Road
towards the town of Three Lakes.
Bobby Kostka was a young man in his late teens, tall and thin, with
wavy light brown hair and laughing blue eyes. He was a member of the
Octagon Club, the study group for teenagers at Sam's church. Sam was one
of sponsors of this group, and Bobby was one of several young people in
the Club who became involved in helping with Sam's nature work.
Early on, Sam recognized this bright, enthusiastic young man as a
potentially talented naturalist. Bobby became Sam's assistant, helping
with photography, working with the animals, and accompanying Sam on some
of his lecture tours. When Sam decided to go back to the Quetico to
gather material for a new lecture film, he invited this young man along
on whose help he had come to rely.
Sam and Bobby drove north from Three Lakes on U.S. Highway 45 for
about forty miles to Watersmeet in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. From
here, U.S. Highway 2 winds west just south of Lake Superior for about 180
miles to Duluth, Minnesota.
It was early afternoon by the time Sam and Bobby reached Duluth.
They drove up the steep coastal incline and stopped the car for a moment
to look down on the cities of Duluth and Superior where they perched
along the side of the blue freshwater sea stretching away into the
horizon.
"How much further to Ely?" Bobby leaned back against the car in the
warm sunshine and stretched contentedly.
"Oh, about 125 more miles, I'd say. About three hours away.
They're expecting us at the boardinghouse for supper."
"By the way, exactly what is this boardinghouse? Who lives there,
just tourists to the area?"
Sam's cheerful face took on a faraway look. "No, actually it's a
boardinghouse for the lumberjacks who are logging that country."
"Logging the canoe country? You mean the trees will all be cut down
where we're going?" Sam felt a secret satisfaction at the alarmed look
on his young friend's face. No, he had not misjudged Bobby as an outdoor
companion. Not only was the lad a good woodsman; he was also truly in
love with nature.
As Sam was beginning to realize, the blessing one receives from an
outdoor journey depends a great deal on one's companions. People who
complain about rain, mud, hunger, plain food, mosquitoes, biting flies,
and all the other discomforts of wilderness travel have a way of spoiling
nature's compensations of rainbows, hearty appetites, and quiet evenings
around the campfire. On the other hand, cheerful companions who enjoy
the challenge of hardship without complaint, who always point out the
interesting and the beautiful, who love all of nature's moods, make an
outing a glorious adventure.
It's easiest to travel through such country with an even number of
people, so that each canoe has someone at bow and stern. Sam knew it
would be safer to go in a party of at least four so the group would have
two canoes, but he was longing for a deeper solitude. He had decided
that he and Bobby would go alone on this trip. Besides, the two of them
would have to spend a lot of their time on photography.
"Sam!" Sam jerked out of his revelry to find Bobby's face glaring
at him, inches from his own. "You better fork up some grub if you don't
wanna get rubbed out." The imitation of a Chicago mafia boss was
laughable coming from the thin faced, blue-eyed young man with the
perpetual smile.
Sam's face lit with amusement as though he had just thought of
something funny. "Well, there's a hotdog stand over there, my friend,
but I advise temperance."
"What do you mean? Aren't they safe to eat?" Bobby looked suddenly
alarmed at the prospect of going hungry.
"Oh, yes, I'm quite sure they're fine hotdogs, maybe the best of
their breed. But as your friend, I must warn you not to..."
But Bobby had already walked over to the stand, and was handing
money over in exchange for a huge bag of fat, beefy hotdogs, each
smothered in ketchup, mustard, and onions, and encased in a large whole
wheat bun.
"Here, Sam. You can have one if you promise to speed up and get us
there in time for supper."
"No, thanks. I'll just wait 'til we get to Ely. And I really doubt
you will want me to speed up any." Sam was starting the engine, and
Bobby flopped into the passenger seat with his precious bag of hotdogs,
eying Sam suspiciously. Why was he being so mysterious, and what had
happened to that legendary Campbell appetite?
They left Duluth driving northeast on U.S. Highway 61, which follows
the rugged, hilly northern coast of Lake Superior. They continued on
Highway 61 until just past the town of Silver Bay, where they took State
Highway 1 northwest toward the tiny logging settlement of Ely,
Minnesota. Sam wrote, "Through hours we wrestled with its twists and
turns, its hills and valleys, as though it were a great serpent which we
must bring into subjection."
Bobby had wolfed down all the sandwiches before they even left
Duluth's city limits, despite Sam's continued mysterious warnings.
Whenever Bobby would demand to know the reason why he should go hungry,
he would only get a solemn shake of the head, and the admonition, "Just
trust me, my friend."
"Well, Bobby, old buddy." Sam yawned and stretched behind the
wheel. "I guess we're finally on the 'long, winding road to Ely.' By the
way, how's your stomach?"
Bobby's face was pale, and there was a sheen of moisture on his
forehead. "My stomach's OK. Why, what do you mean?" Bobby gave Sam a
weak smile. "You didn't think I'd get car sick, did you?"
"Hmmm. I guess you wanted me to hurry, didn't you, so we would get
to supper on time." Sam bore down harder on the gas pedal, and the Buick
sped around the tight curves with unnecessary speed.
"Sam!" Bobby's voice was desperate. "Stop! I need to stop!"
Anyone who has ever felt the griping nausea of car sickness will
understand how Bobby felt, and will know just exactly what he did when
Sam stopped the car.
Sam stood by with concern; he hadn't really expected his friend to
get so sick.
"I'll get you back for this one, friend Sam." Bobby clearly felt
much better after having gotten rid of the offending hotdogs, and was
goodnaturedly taking advantage of Sam's obvious repentance. When I'm the
cook in camp, I won't bother to call you when the chow's ready. I'll
make you forage for mushrooms and berries."
"Are you feeling well enough to ride again?" Sam inquired
worriedly.
"No, I think I'll just walk for a while, thank you."
During the remainder of the drive, Bobby often had to get out and
walk, much to his chagrin. He really did wish he hadn't eaten those
hotdogs, and by the time they reached the boardinghouse at Ely late in
the afternoon, he had no interest at all in eating the hearty supper
which the landlady spread out for them.
Early the next morning before sunrise, Sam awakened Bobby, and they
drove a little further north to the tiny town of Winton. Winton was a
settlement of a few hundred Finnish lumberjacks, perched precariously on
the border of civilization and wilderness. It was as far north as one
could drive an automobile in this part of the country.
The morning's destination was the four year old Border Lakes
Outfitting Company on Fall Lake, partly owned by Sigurd F. Olson of Ely.
Sam had met the Olson family when he first came to canoe country
several years before. Sig Olson was well-known nationally as a writer,
teacher, geologist and eloquent conservationist, besides being a famous
guide of the Quetico. He and Sam had struck up an immediate friendship,
and had taken some memorable trips together through the vast wilderness
to the north.
Before long, Sam and Bobby pulled up in front of the large, roughly
hewn frame warehouse. Sam felt a deep excitement stir within himself as
he got out of the car and surveyed the view. Fall Lake, sparkling in the
first rays of the rising sun, filled the background of the scene with a
bold wash of blue. They pushed open the door of the warehouse and
stepped inside.
The large room was cool and dim on the inside, and smelled of canvas
and varnish. Scores of canoes rested on racks hung from the rafters.
Packsacks, paddles, and lifejackets hung on the wall. Cooksets, fire
grates, canteens; everything a canoe camper needed were stacked neatly on
shelves. Sam watched Bobby's face light up with excitement. This was
the kind of place which always made Sam's heart beat fast.
"Sam Campbell!", yelled two teenage boys in unison from across the
warehouse. "Dad, Sam Campbell is here!" Sigurd, Jr, and Robert Olson,
Sig's sons, were sandy haired, rugged youths. Sam knew these boys were
already excellent outdoorsmen in the tradition of their father. They had
taken a great liking to Sam on his previous visits, and the affection was
mutual.
"Hello, Sig! Hello Bob! My goodness, you two have really grown
up!" Sam wrapped the boys in a quick bear hug. "I want you to meet my
friend Bobby Kostka. Well, if it isn't the bourgeois himself!"
A tall man had appeared from behind a rack of canoes. He was a
Scandinavian, lean and darkly tanned. His face was alight with a big
smile of welcome. "Welcome, Sam! How are you?" He gripped Sam's hand
firmly.
Sig Olson was known in these parts as the bourgeois. The
designation was high praise indeed, for it was the name the Voyageurs
gave their leaders.
"We have everything you requested all ready to go, Sam," Sig Olson
said. "A Duluth pack and raingear for Bobby, a fire grate, and this
waterproof packsack for your camera equipment. You remember John
Sanstead, one of our guides? He's going to tow you up Fall Lake and
Basswood Lake to the Canadian ranger station, where you'll have to stop
to go through customs. Then he'll take you on up to Bayley Bay and drop
you off. OK? Let's look over your route before you go."
Sam and Sig spread a large map out on Sig's desk, and began
discussing the various pros and cons of the route Sam had tentatively
planned. Sig's intimate knowledge of the region was invaluable: this
lake had better fishing, that lake was more likely to have moose, such
and such portage was completely overgrown, on a certain cliff were
prehistoric Indian pictographs, this river was now blocked by beaver
dams.
While the two men pored over the map, Bobby and the Olson boys
packed Bobby's gear into the Duluth pack, and carefully packed the camera
equipment. Then they carried all the gear and Sam's canoe out to the
dock where the tow launch bobbed up and down on incoming wavelets.
Sam and the guide soon came out of the warehouse and down to the
dock. Sam mentally checked off the list of things they needed. Sam's
pack, Bobby's pack, camera pack, food and cookware (distributed in Sam
and Bobby's packs), tent (strapped to the top of Sam's pack), fire grate,
sleeping bags, fishing gear, maps, tarpaulin (strapped to the top of
Bobby's pack), Sam's guitar -- everything was in order.
"Taking your guitar again, I see," commented the guide as he began
tying the canoe to the launch.
"Sure, I never leave home without it." Sam smiled somewhat
guardedly. He was used to being ridiculed for this flagrant departure
from the tradition of traveling light.
"Well, I used to would have said it was crazy, you taking that bulky
guitar, especially when you are having to take all that heavy camera
stuff. But I remember how nice it was to have along." John Sanstead
looked at Bobby Kostka and the Olson boys.
"I guided Sam a few years ago on that trip he took up to
Kahnipiminanikok. We had to portage around a whole string of falls on
the way up, and I remember just dreading having to carry that guitar
around each one. But I was won over pretty quickly; singing around the
campfire every night was a real treat. I'll never forget that trip. It
was one of the best I've ever guided."
When the mound of luggage was secured on the launch, the guide
coaxed the sputtering engine to life and loosed the moorings. They were off!
The guide took them up the length of Fall Lake, over Long Portage,
the four mile truck portage, and into Hoist Bay.
Hoist Bay is the southern most reach of huge Basswood Lake. The
Voyageurs called this lake Lac du Bois Blanc, or "Whitewood Lake," using
the French word for the basswood tree.
Large rollers, driven by a stiff breeze, marched down the east arm
of Basswood as the trio headed up the lake toward the Canadian Ranger
Cabin. The air was filled with flying foam and spray as the launch cut
through the oncoming waves.
"I sure am glad you're towing us up Basswood today," Sam shouted
over the gale. "We might have been windbound in Hoist Bay, otherwise.
In fact, I haven't seen any canoes out on Basswood so far today."
John Santead nodded. "You certainly wouldn't want to paddle upwind
on Basswood today. The waves can get pretty big out here. You know, I
got caught out here one day when a bigger wind than this came up. I was
guiding a party of two canoes up to some of the best fishing spots in
Hunter Island. A man and his wife, both college professors, were in one
canoe, and the other man, a carpenter as I remember, was in the bow of my
canoe. Fortunately, all three of them were experienced canoeists.
"Anyway, we were quartering the waves as best we could, and our
canoes were separated by maybe a hundred feet. People don't believe me
when I tell them this next part, but it's true. I'll never forget
looking over where the other canoe was supposed to be, and not seeing
it! I was afraid they had capsized, but in a moment I saw their canoe
climb up on the next wave, then we went down in a trough, and I lost
sight of them again! When the waves are so high you lose sight of a
canoe right next to you, you shouldn't be out there!" The guide shook
his head in wonder at the experience.
About half way up the lake, they stopped at a small island on the
Canadian border and checked through customs at the ranger station. By
the time the launch reached Bayley Bay at the northern end of this arm of
Basswood, the sun had long since passed its zenith. Sam decided they
should go ahead and make camp on Basswood Lake that night, then portage
out first thing in the morning.
The guide dropped Sam and Bobby off with their gear at a nice
campsite in the bay, and headed back at high speed in order to reach
Border Lakes Outfitting Company by dark.
Sam and Bobby filmed the departing launch, then set about making
their first camp. The last party had thoughtfully left their tentpoles
leaning against a tree, and had covered a stack of firewood with
birchbark to keep it dry. Bobby filmed Sam pitching the canvas tent and
doing other camp chores.
Before they had left Winton, Sam had gone down to the lakeshore and
rigged up a scene for a special film segment. He tied several lengths of
clear line to the bow, stern, and gunwales of the canoe, then ran the
line through carefully placed pulleys in the trees overhead. While the
Olson boys pulled on the lines, Bobby filmed a hilarious segment of Sam
and his canoe dancing with joy in the shallow water! This film would
later be spliced in between scenes of the departing launch and the
sequence of setting up camp.
Even though the rigged celebratory dance had already taken place,
Sam couldn't help whirling around the stone fireplace a few times with
unrestrained joy.
"We're here, Bobby! We're really here!" panted Sam as he dropped to
the ground beside the blaze and began setting out supper. He grinned
widely at Bobby, who grinned right back with equal enthusiasm. In fact,
Bobby hadn't stopped grinning since he had awakened that morning. "And
tomorrow we will portage into the Quetico. No more motors, very few
people, just wilderness!"
Early the next morning, they portaged into Burke Lake, then around
the falls at the northern end of Burke into the North Bay of Basswood
Lake, where they stopped for lunch.
By early afternoon, they had reached long, narrow Isabella Lake,
where they were to make camp.
That night when they had crawled into their sleeping bags in the
tent, Sam was wakeful. He lay there staring at the canvas ceiling,
listening to the night sounds and wondering what strange events might be
transpiring in the forest. Bobby fell asleep quickly, and his loud
snoring soon filled the air, drowning out most of the forest symphony.
Unable to fall asleep, Sam finally got dressed and quietly slipped
out of the tent. He followed a path through the moonlit forest, stopping
every so often to listen to the night. The path stopped at the margin of
a beaver pond. Sam sat down on a log to watch.
The beavers, ignoring the extra shadow which had appeared on shore,
industriously swam back and forth in the moonlight carrying their loads
of sticks.
Sam watched this wilderness performance in awe for some time.
Suddenly, he heard a movement in the brush nearby. He turned. To his
astonishment, a large beaver was walking purposefully toward him!
Sam froze. He expected that at any moment the beaver would see him
and run away, but the beaver kept coming. It was soon apparent to Sam
that not only did the beaver see him, it was intent on walking right up
to him!
Sam felt as if he were in another world as that citizen of the
wilderness stopped right at his feet and looked up calmly into his face.
Sam was sure the experience could not possibly become more intense, when
suddenly the beaver raised up and rested his front feet on Sam's knee!
In this position he stood for several minutes, looking intently into
Sam's face as though he were trying to communicate.
Finally, the beaver lowered himself to the ground, and unhurriedly
walked to the pond, where he slipped quietly into the black water and
swam away.
Sam had never been so excited! He knew he wouldn't be sleeping at
all that night. After returning to camp, he built a small fire in the
rock fireplace, and sat looking out over Isabella Lake. Why had nature
decided to initiate him into her secret society? He felt the beaver
experience had some deep significance for his life, if only he could
pinpoint it.
Although by far his most remarkable experience, this was not the
first time he had been the recipient of friendly gestures from wild
creatures of late. In the last few years, he had felt a dramatic change
in his relationship with the wilderness. As he sat there on the banks of
Isabella, he struggled to understand.
Attitude, he finally realized as the first rose of dawn
streaked the sky. My attitude has changed. When I hunted and
destroyed animals, they did not trust me. I did not have experiences
like this. Now that my attitude is no longer threatening, I am gaining
the confidence of wild creatures.
The days passed in happy succession, each with its own extraordinary
joys. They spent several days in beautiful Sarah Lake, one of Sam's
favorites, explored the shores of McIntyre Lake, passed through Brent and
Conmee Lakes, and slogged across the long portages into large Pooh Bay
Lake during a downpour. Two more portages brought them to the Malign
River, on the northern perimeter of Hunter Island.
They filmed bear on Sturgeon Lake, and moose on the Malign river.
They fished the waters of Lac La Croix while windbound there for several
days, and filmed the roaring cataract of Curtain Falls. They examined
the ancient Indian pictographs on Picture Rock of Crooked Lake, and
portaged around the treacherous falls of the Basswood River, where so
many of the Vogageurs' canoes were lost.
On their last night in the Quetico, Bobby and Sam sat in front of a
friendly, crackling campfire on the west arm of Basswood Lake. Their
conversation turned to the mystery of the beaver experience, and to all
the other magical moments of the journey.
"These are the real values, Bobby," said Sam with conviction.
"Peace, progress in understanding spiritual truths, recognition and love
of beauty, a natural lifestyle, honest friendship, an apprehension of
God's presence. During these last few weeks, we have been in touch with
what is real. All the woes of the stock market, all the disasters of the
financial world, cannot take these things from us. We spent nearly our
last penny to make this trip, but it will be one of the best and most
productive investments ever made."
Long before white people arrived to carve their scars into the
wilderness of upper Wisconsin, Ojibway, Chippewa, and Potawatomi Indians
lived and hunted inconspicuously in the primeval forests. Like the
people of all human civilizations, their lives were shaped by births,
deaths, love, family, and friendships, by industry and survival, and by
religion, patriotism, war, diplomacy, and community. They did differ,
however, in a few important ways from the white newcomers which would
eventually drive them from the land of their ancestors.
In general, possessions, wealth, and greed did not motivate these
people. They appreciated the things the earth gave them, and took only
what they needed from the land. Although they built villages and in
general lived comfortably, they did not feel the white people's fear of
wilderness, and felt no need to conquer, subdue, and banish it from their
daily lives. The Indians did not insulate themselves from the outdoors;
they became intimate with it. They lived in harmony with wilderness,
knew its every mood, understood its secrets, traveled its vast, trackless
halls.
Long ago, some of these native peoples settled in a particularly
rich hunting and fishing ground along the shores of a certain chain of
crystal lakes, near what is today Nicolet National Forest. Their
villages and camps along the shores of these waters were filled daily
with laughing children and industrious activity. Could the Indians have
observed their homes from the air, they would have seen a sprawling
necklace of sparkling jewels nestled in a dark velvet expanse of vast,
dense forests.
This ancient waterway consisted of twenty-eight medium sized lakes,
all connected by navigable channels, with myriad peripheral lakes and
flowages. Immense conifer forests of huge trees covered the surrounding
low, gently rolling hills. Dank muskegs shivered in the valley floors,
vanishing remnants of ancient lakes left behind by the retreating
glaciers. In some valleys, diminutive patches of open water ringed by
encroaching sphagnum still looked up from the centers of soggy tarns as
if to gaze one last time upon the sky above before disappearing
forever.
Roving packs of wolves watched shyly from the brush as the graceful
birchbark canoes of the Indians moved silently along these shores in the
morning mists. Huge bull moose with their great racks of horns, and cows
with gangly calves grazed the marshy shallows. At dusk, shrieks of
mountain lions echoed through the deep woods, paralyzing the denizens of
those dark shades.
By the 1860's, white settlers had established trading posts in the
Eagle River and Three Lakes areas. Daniel Gagen and Hiram "Hi" Polar
were well known white traders who bartered with the local Indians in
those days. A village of several hundred Chippewa Indians and a handful
of white families quickly grew up around the flourishing trading center
which would eventually become the town of Three Lakes. The government of
the United States began granting land in the area to homesteaders during
the mid 1880's.
In 1881, the Milwaukee, Lakeshore and Western Railway (later the
Chicago and Northwestern Railway) tried to run a line north through the
area, but the surveyor found a lake in the way on each of his three
attempts. Most of the area was still a dense wilderness, and the
surveyor did not know of the scores of other lakes dotting the
landscape. Because of these three lakes (Maple, Townline, and Rangeline
Lakes) encountered by the surveyor, the town was named Three Lakes.
One of the more isolated lakes of the chain was known as Four Mile
Lake. This lake lay to the east of the main waterway. Its only
connection to the chain was a navigable channel leading to Big Fork Lake,
which in turn opened into one of the main lakes of the chain. Four Mile
Lake had no other outlet, and thus had no through traffic.
Although tinted slightly brown by tannin, the waters of Four Mile
Lake were delightfully transparent, and its shores varied through a rich
continuum of plant and animal habitats. The lake did have two inlets.
One was a small stream which drained a soggy spruce bog into the
northwest bay. The other was Four Mile Creek, a wide flowage choked with
cattails and reeds which meandered its way from nearby Spring Lake into
the southeast corner. Much of the rest of the shore was high and covered
by large white pines.
The land around Four Mile Lake was eventually granted to a
homesteader, who built a cabin on Brown's Point.
During the late 1800's, the logging industry moved steadily up the
Wisconsin River. By the 1870's, there were seven logging camps in the
Three Lakes area. Spruce bogs and cedar swamps, their protective
canopies gone, lay open to the drying heat of the summer sun. The torn
landscape was often swept by fire. The cry of the mountain lion no
longer echoed through the wilderness.
The timber harvesting moved northward, leaving behind a devastated
landscape. Once isolated and pristine Four Mile Lake did not escape the
woodsman's axe. During the early stages of this logging boom, the
homesteader on Four Mile Lake sold the timber on his land to the
Woodruff-Maguire Lumber Company, which cut most of the large pines.
One summer day in 1902, an asthmatic old steam launch puffed and
coughed through the channel from Big Fork Lake into the waters of Four
Mile. Mr. and Mrs. Leo Bishop and their friends Ernest and Ida Wise were
on a camping trip, headed for a surviving stand of virgin timber on the
distant eastern shore.
Camping in 1902 was not the lightweight affair of nylon and aluminum
that it is today. The campers which ventured into the blue waters of
Four Mile Lake that sunny day carried heavy iron kettles and skillets,
and heavy, bulky canvas tents.
Furthermore, because there was lots of open land and very few people
camping for sport, nature enthusiasts of those days knew little of the
modern wilderness ethic. The Indians possessed the skills of traceless
camping, of course, but few whites saw the need for such measures. These
ethics would come some sixty years later to nature enthusiasts as
wilderness dwindled and overuse became a serious problem.
In the meantime, sport campers happily honed their skills in the now
disappearing art of campcraft. On their arrival at the selected camp
site, the Bishops and the Wises busily set to work building a stone
fireplace and a rock "icebox" in the lake along shore. They cut tent
poles, split logs for a rough-hewn table, dug rain trenches around the
tent, and excavated a latrine away from camp, complete with a sanded seat
and a screen of freshly-cut hemlock branches! They even cut blocks of
sod and hemlock boughs to use as springy mattresses. These heavy handed
camping techniques make the sensitive modern backpacker cringe, but it
was all very much a part of the wilderness experience in those days.
For several lazy, sunny days the four friends swam in the warm
waters of the lake, hiked for hours along intriguing trails, fished from
the old steam launch, and cooked delicious fried fish dinners on the
stone fireplace.
The Wises enjoyed this trip immensely, and often spoke of it after
they had returned to their home in Greenville, Illinois. In the fall of
1903, they decided to again take the train north to Three Lakes, and
return to the same camping spot.
Sometime before the shores of Four Mile Lake were logged, the
homesteader had moved north to the nearby town of Eagle River. His cabin
on Brown's Point was occupied by the only resident of Four Mile Lake, a
hermit named Bierbrauer. While the Wises were camping on the lake in
1903, Mr. Bierbrauer approached Ernest Wise and suggested he buy some of
the land.
The Wises had fallen deeply in love with Four Mile Lake, and the
hermit's words filled them with intense excitement. They lost no time in
hiring a one-horse wagon to take them to the homesteader in Eagle River,
where they were able to immediately purchase the land. The Wises allowed
Bierbrauer to remain on as caretaker, and after a year gave him a piece
of the land as a gift.
The rest of the tale of the hermit Bierbrauer is incidental to our
story, but is legend in the town of Three Lakes even today. According to
a 1949 letter from Ernest Wise to Sam Campbell, "as soon as he
(Bierbrauer) received the deed, he sold...(the land), moved down to
Planting Ground Lake and returned to his drunken ways, which soon cost
him his life." Regional historian Catherine Ralph in The Pine, the
Plow, and the Pioneer, a history of Three Lakes, tells how in 1908 a
man named "Mr. Beerbower" caught a forty pound fighting muskelunge with
his bare hands in Planting Ground Lake. The book also records that circa
1910, this same man was fatally shot on Townline Lake by one Black Mike,
in a drunken argument over a woman.
Starting about 1912, the Campbell family began coming up regularly
from Chicago to spend their summers near the town of Three Lakes. The
campsite in the virgin stand of pines along the eastern shore of Four
Mile Lake became their favorite retreat, and they eventually purchased a
cabin and some land along the western shore.
When Ernest Wise had bought Lot One on the west bank, he had also
acquired the small 1.3 acre island just off shore. Before Long Lake Dam
(now Burnt Rollways Dam) was built on the lake chain circa 1910 and
raised the water level, this island had actually been part of the
mainland, and so was considered part of Lot One. In 1923, the Wises
built a cabin, a storehouse, a boathouse, and sunk a well on the
island.
When Ernest Wise's health began to deteriorate, the Wises sold their
land on Four Mile Lake, including the island, to Sam Campbell in 1937.
When Sam bought the island, he was in his early forties, and was
well into his career of animal photography and lecturing. The family's
mainland properties also passed to Sam and his brother Don upon the death
of the beloved "Dad" Campbell.
Dad Campbell was a kind man with a famous sense of humor. He was
often known by the silly nickname "Do-dad," a name Sam invented when he
once overheard Ida Cunningham say, "Oh, do, Dad!" The Cunninghams, who
regarded the Campbell men as family, grieved with Sam and Don over the
loss of their father, and were a great source of comfort.
The Cunningham children were quite grown up by now. They had
graduated from the local high school, and Jean and Howard had attended
business college in Oshkosh. Beth and Jean still enjoyed spending time
at the Sanctuary, but Sam noticed with understanding and amusement that
their primary interests were elsewhere. Jean was spending a lot of time
with a local young man named Norman Brewster. Beth seemed to be finding
a lot in common with Grant Halliday, a young photographer from Chicago
who had come up to meet Sam.
The land had changed as well over the ensuing years. Slowly, the
northland was beginning to heal itself of the wounds left by the logging
era. By the time Sam moved onto the island, the Sanctuary was again a
densely wooded paradise, teeming with wildlife. Once again the sense of
wilderness prevailed.
Even so, some things would never again be the same. The Native
Americans had been displaced from their own country, and their birchbark
canoes no longer floated along the shores in the morning mist. The large
predators and the moose were gone, too, perhaps never to return.
Sam made the small cabin on "Campbell's Island" his summer home, and
it became the headquarters for the whole wildlife Sanctuary. A sign
hanging over the boathouse proudly proclaimed "The Sanctuary of
Wegimind," and indeed, this was the island home which has captured the
imagination of so many through the years.
"Come on Bobby and Howard," Sam called. "Let's go get some lunch!"
Bobby Kostka and Howard Cunningham looked up as Sam stepped out of
the darkroom. They were on the island helping Sam Campbell prepare his
latest moving picture, and were learning all the details of film
developing, splicing, and editing.
When Sam had moved onto the island, he had converted Ernest Wise's
storehouse into his workroom where he prepared his motion pictures.
The boys happily followed Sam out of the workroom. The weather had
changed dramatically while they had been inside. Low, gray clouds hung
low over the treetops, and a fine, chilly drizzle misted down across the
north land. It was good weather for the indoor portion of Sam's work.
It was also the kind of weather made for cozy cabins, warm fireplaces and
good books, Sam thought as he anticipated the afternoon.
The cabin was only a short distance away from the workroom. As they
came in the front door into the family room, the young lady sitting at
Sam's semi-circular workdesk looked up with a smile and said, "Well,
hello there, you three. Are you giving up for the day?"
"Hello, Dodie," said Sam. "How's your work coming? We decided it's
time to take a lunch break. Hungry?"
Sam had employed Dorothy "Dodie" Sheets to help with the burgeoning
correspondence of his business. She was another of the young people in
the Octagon Club who enjoyed the outdoors and to whom Sam had given the
chance to help with his outdoor work.
"Yes, I'm hungry," Dodie declared emphatically. "And I believe you
deliberately left that pot of stew on the stove just to torture me all
morning!" Everyone knew Sam was a good cook, and the pot of beef stew
had been simmering deliciously.
As the four sat down to eat the soup, Dodie looked up with a
perfectly straight and businesslike expression on her face. "Oh, by the
way Sam, one of your fan letters today is from a young lady living in
Chicago who heard one of your lectures last summer. She's the secretary
for one of the schools where you showed your film for a lyceum. She was
very, what should I say, complimentary, I guess is the word. Her name is
Virginia Adams."
Sam looked up from his lunch with a quizzical expression on his
face. Dodie's words made him want to laugh, but she didn't seem to be
teasing. "OK, sure, I'll look at it later," he said casually.
After lunch, the three young people took their rowboat and headed
back to the landing at Four Mile Lake, their work done for the day.
Sam noticed the cabin seemed awfully quiet without them. He had
been looking forward to the cozy solitude of the rainy afternoon, but a
strange restlessness stirred in his soul. He decided he'd better do some
more work, and see if the activity wouldn't cure his restlessness. He
sat down at his desk, unsure what work he should do for the rest of the
day. He idly picked up the letter from the lady in Chicago and began
reading it.
The wind rattled the windows of the cabin, and Sam could still hear water gurgling in the downspout. When he looked out the window at the lake, however, the rain seemed to